Jump ring counts are for a nice length of practice chain, once you have the weave mastered the lengths may be made into bracelets, necklaces, sheets, jewelry, and oh yes, Armor. I would like to remind the reader once again, that although the process of weaving maille was to make protective outerwear, these beautiful contemporary pieces will not offer you protection against anything. Do not challenge this statement! You will hurt yourself.
*Jump rings will be referred to as rings in the instructions.
Step by step photos are taken using manufactured 10mm Aluminum Jump Rings, by Darice. *Not recommended for actual maille pieces, but for practice they are inexpensive and work well.
A word about "Micro" or Mini Maille. In a few cases a particular weave will lend itself to being made in a very small scale even though the aspect ratio is correct, the piece winds up being very fine. Examples of this can be seen in several pictures in the Photo Gallery, Sterling Silver Jens Pind Linakge, the Mini Celtic Stars (aka Snowflakes) earrings, or the Byzantine weave earrings in Gold tone wire with Fresh Water Pearls. (Flower) They are about the circumference of a penny.
Beginner Weaves:
Double or Dragon Chain
Box Chain (Inca Puno, Queen's Chain)
Byzantine
European 4 - in - 1
Intermediate Weaves:
Half Persian 3 - in - 1
Half Persian 4 - in -1
Full Persian
Japanese 6 - in - 1
Advanced Weaves:
Jens Pind's Linkage
Round Maille
Helm Weave
Celtic Weave
BEGINNER WEAVES
Double or Dragon Chain is the easiest weave to begin with and the basis for all other patterns. All maille weaves will begin by opening the jump rings and then linking them together. Learn this weave to begin other patterns, this is the starting point for many others.
Double or Dragon Chain (Speed Maille Version)
Open 20 jump rings
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| Open Jump Ring |
Close 20 jump rings
1. Place two closed rings on an open ring and close the open ring.
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| Step One |
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| Step Two |
Four jump rings are now one unit or two links long.
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| 1 unit |
Starting at one end -
3. Place an open jump ring through two closed rings and add two more closed rings, close the open ring.
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| Step Three |
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| Step Three |
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| First ring is closed |
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| Second ring has been added and closed. The second ring passes through four rings. |
Repeat steps 3 and four until the length of chain is complete.
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| Length of Dragon Chain, 8 links long |
1. Open 100 jump rings
2. Close two rings
3. Place the two closed rings on an open ring, close the open ring.
4. Slide an open ring through the two previous closed rings and next to the ring just closed. Close the ring.
5. Slide an open ring through the last two closed rings, close the ring.
6. Slide another ring though the last two closed rings and next to the ring just added, close the ring.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the length of chain is complete.
Box, Inca Puno or Queen's Chain
Learn this weave to create the Key Fob, Men's Bracelet, or Beaded Necklace projects.
NOTE: Three different colors of rings have been used for demonstration purposes and in hopes of illustrating the written instruction. Single color rings may also be used.
Open 54 jump rings
18 Pink
18 Blue
18 Green
2. Close two rings. (Pink)
3. Place two closed on a twist tie or piece of scrap wire.
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| Step 3 |
4. Slide an open ring (Blue) through the two closed rings, close the ring.
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| Step 4 |
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| Step 5 |
6. Add two more open rings (Green) to the Blue rings
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| Step 6 |
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| There should be 6 rings total |
7. Fold the last two rings (green) down and back against the rings below them (pink), one on either side of the chain. This will form a Triangle shape.
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| Step 7 |
Step 8. Gently push the folded rings forward. Until they touch the rings in front of them. It will look like this.
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| Step 8. |
9. Separate the last pair of rings (blue) to create an "eye". Turn the unit 1/4 turn.
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| Step 9 |
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| Rotate 1/4 turn, this space is the "eye". |
10. Slide an open ring (Pink) through the eye, capturing the inside pair of rings (Green) and close it.
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| Step 10 |
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| Closed Pink Ring |
11. Repeat step 10.
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| Step 11 |
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| Second jump ring in Step 11 added |
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| First "knot" complete |
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| Step 12 |
13. Repeat step 12.
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| Step 13 |
*Repeat steps 7 - 13 to complete the chain.
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| Prepare for repeat of step 7 |
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| Repeat step 7 - Blue Rings are folded OVER the pink rings and back against the blue rings. One on either side of the chain. |
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| Push blue rings forward and rotate 1/4 turn |
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| Add an open ring (green) through the eye. |
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| Add the second ring (green) through the eye |
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| Continue until your chain is the desired length |
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| Side view |
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| Final rings lock chain into place. |
Byzantine Weave
Like the Box Chain Weave with an additional set of connector rings creating a pretty knotted metal bow look. A favorite weave of maillers, it is usually the first one most people choose to learn. Learn this weave to create the Byzantine Micro Maille Bracelet and Maiden Fair Earrings.
10mm (6mm ID) 16g Anodized Aluminum Rings illustrate the steps. The AR is 4.65, too big for a solid chain, but nice for clear view of the process of linking this weave.
Open 100 jump rings (or an even number to your liking)
Close two rings.
1. Place two closed rings on ascrap piece of wire or twist tie to mark the beginning. 
2. Slide an open ring through the two closed rings, close the ring.
3. Add two more open rings to the rings you just closed.
4. Fold the last two rings down and back against the rings below them, one ring to the right, the other to the left.
Push the folded rings gently forward, turn the unit 1/4 turn, and separate the outer rings (green) rings to create an "eye".
5. Slide and open ring through the eye and close it.
6. Repeat step 5.
7. Slide an open jump ring through the last two (Dark Blue) rings added.
8. Repeat step 7.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8.
10. Fold the last pair of rings added back and against the ones below them, one to the right and one to the left. Separate the rings to form an eye.
11. Slide an open ring through the eye.
12. Repeat step 11.
This completes one Byzantine Knot Unit.
*Repeat steps 7 - 12 until the length of chain is complete, The last rings added will finish the chain and lock the last unit into place.
European 4 - in - 1 (Speed Maille Version)
One of the most popular weaves in mailing, it is also one of the most used designs for Movie and TV productions in armor form. Learn this weave to create the Courtier's Parure, Gothic Lace Necklace, and One Ringy-Dingy Ring.
Mateials
39 10mm (6mm ID) 14gAluminum Jump Rings by Darice
AR - 3.7
Open 13 jump rings
Close 26 jump rings.
Slide 4 closed jump rings on 1 open ring and set aside.
Set up: Line up your rings on your work surface 1 x 2
or place the closed rings on the open rings.
1. Arrange the 4 rings on the first unit you made like this.
2. Pick up an open ring and slide it down into the bottom ring. It is easier to pick this part up in your hand while you thread the jump ring through the other two.
It will look like this.
The ring lies beneath the one before it.
3. Add 2 closed rings to the open ring, and close the ring.
4. Fold or flip the two rings just added so they are in the same position as the first four jump rings. Like this.
Note that the center ring arcs over the outer rings, and rests beneath the center ring behind it.
As additional rings are added and the chain increases in length it will be gin to lie flat and will be easier to maintain the position of the rings.
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4, until the rings have been used up.Repeat Step 2. An open jump ring is placed down and through the bottom jump ring,
and then up through the top ring (photo shows ring position).
Repeat step 3, and add two closed rings.
Close the ring, and position the added rings accordingly. And keep going.
When you length of European 4 in 1 is complete you can continue on and make it longer, turn it into a bracelet or what have you or you may add the final single jump ring to the last pair of rings, finishing the chain.
I turned mine into a simple and light weigh Key Chain or Purse decoration.
INTERMEDIATE WEAVES
Half Persian 3 -in- 1
Materials
_ 10mm (6mm ID) 14g Aluminum Jump Rings, by Darice
Twist Tie, Scrap Wire
This weave is a bit tricky to get started. The rings must be and remain in an exact position when weaving other rings along the chain. Once several rings have been added, it will be easier to see where the next ring should go in the patter.
Half-Persian 3-in-1 is just that, 3 jump rings connected by 1 jump ring.
Open _ jump rings
Close _ Jump rings.
1. Place two closed rings on one open ring and close the ring.
2. Place a twist tie or scrap piece of wire on the single ring.
3. Here is where it gets a bit tricky.
Holding the work in your left hand, pull the two loose rings outward and flip them towards you. Changing their position. The bottom ring is now the top ring and the top ring is now the bottom ring.
The ring should be crossed and an "eye" or almond shape should visible. This is where the next ring goes.
4. Slide an open through the eye of the first pair of rings.
5. Add a closed ring to the still open ring, and close the ring.
6. Fold the last ring, up and against the ring you added it to, forming another eye.
7. Slide one open ring through the second pair of rings.
8. Add a closed ring to the still open ring and close the ring.
9. Fold the last ring up and against the last ring forming an eye.
Repeat Steps 7 through 9 to complete the length of chain.
ADVANCED WEAVES
Jens Pind's LinkageMaterials:
Twist Tie
Lot and Lots of jump rings in the correct AR
Two Pairs of pliers (preferably Flat Nosed)
Direction: "Up" = away from you, Down = towards you
1. Close one ring (Green) and connect a twist tie to mark the beginning of the chain.
2. Put one jump ring (Blue) through the first one, close it, and lay it flat against the first one. This will determine how the spiral will form.
3. Add a third jump ring (Purple), by passing it through the eye created by the first two rings and lay it flat against the second ring.
There are now three rings, Green, Blue, Purple (or 1, 2, 3). The purple ring is now in the correct position.
4.
Add a fourth ring (*Green), this ring should align with the first ring
(The one with the twist tie). Slide the ring up through the eye in the
previous two rings (blue and purple) making sure it lies behind the
first (Green) ring. Close the ring. *The pattern repeat begins. You can
see the zig-zag stacking begin.
5. Rotate the chain so the Blue jump ring arcs over the work.
6. Add the next ring (Blue). Slide the ring down and through the eye of Green and Purple rings and UNDERNEATH (in front of) the previous Blue jump ring.
7.
Rotate the chain so the Purple Ring arcs over the work. Add the next
ring (purple). Slide the ring up and through the eye of the Green and
Blue rings and behind the previous purple ring.The pattern is beginning to form and you can see how the jump rings are placed in relationship to each other. The Chain needs to be turned to make sure that the rings are lined up in the right position and placed opposite each other.
8.
Continue with steps 4 through 7 adding each color (Green, Blue, Purple)
of jump ring in order until your length of chain is complete.
There are now seven rings total in the chain, and the third Green, Blue, Purple sequence begins. Finish with a clasp or link together with a jump ring. Here is a short length sample of the chain we just made, supple enough to make a circle.
Round Maille
There are two methods for making round maille. One would be akin to zipping up a folded piece of European 4-in-1 by adding jump rings to the open edge. Two is very much like the Box Weave, folding and adding jump rings along the length as you go.
I prefer method two, as described below.
Materials:
3 paper clips, twist ties, or markers of choice
42 Jump rings
Open 36 Jump rings
Close 6 jump rings
Create a 2-1-2-1-2 Chain
1. Place 2 closed rings on 1 open ring. Closed the ring
2. Slide 1 open ring through two closed rings, and add two more closed rings. Close the open ring. (2-1-2-1 Chain)
3. Add two more open rings to the last single jump ring in the chain.
Make a Triangle:1. Slide one open ring through the last pair of rings in the chain, and the first pair of rings in the chain. Close the ring.
2. Lay the rings flat on your work surface and spread them apart revealing the inner triangle of rings. Flip the work over or pull the single rings outward reorienting them to the outside.
3. Pick up the triangle, maintaining it's shape, and using your markers, add them to the bottom three rings of the triangle. The rings that are sitting directly in your work surface.
4. With the markers in your hand, turn the work upside down, the top three jump rings should hang down in a triangle pattern. These are rings A, B and C.
5. Turn your work right side up, and create a tent by gently pushing the inner rings towards the center.
Create the Chain.
1. Add one open ring to rings A and B. Close the ring.
2. Add one open ring to rings B and C. Close the ring.
3. Add one open ring to rings C and A. Close the ring. These are now rings A, B and C.
4. Add one open ring through rings A and B.
5. Add one open ring through rings B and C.
6. Add one open ring through rings C and A. Close the ring. The chain should look like this.
7. Fold or let the rings just added fall back against the work, and separate the rings, revealing the inner triangle.
8. Gently push the rings that have been folded to the center of the outer rings, creating a tent in the center of the chain.
9. Add one open ring to rings A and B. Close the ring. 
10. Add one open ring to rings B and C. Close the ring.
11. Add one open ring to rings C and A. Close the ring.
12. Add one open ring to new rings A and B. Close the ring.
13. Add one open ring to new rings B and C. Close the ring.
14. Add one open ring to new rings C and A. Close the ring.
Repeat steps 4 through 14 to complete the pattern.
15. Ending the weave, you may add the last two rings to two sets of rings A and B and B and C, or A and B and C and A.
16. Slide the final ring through the last two rings added and close the ring.
17. Remove the markers from the other end of the chain and repeat steps 13 and 14 on the opposite end of the chain.
HELM WEAVE - Forthcoming
Celtic Weave
This interesting and unique weave is held together by connector rings. Two sizes of rings are required to create this weave, and it can be a little tricky to get started. We have included three ways to start your chain, and it is only a matter of repeating the pattern steps to continue with your piece.
Pattern Note: The first set of rings will migrate out of patern, this is easily corrected by sandwiching a center ring in between the first pair of outer rings, and using connector rings to attach it. See pattern instructions for details.
*See Weave Tips for getting started
Materials:
22 - 10mm OD Aluminum Jump Rings (16g) - Large Rings
28 - 7mm OD Aluminum Jump Rings (18g) - Small Rings
Close ALL 22 Large Rings
Open ALL 28 Small Rings
1. Slide 1 Large outer ring (Pink) on to a Small connector ring (Blue)
2. Add a Large Center ring (Green) and one more outer ring (Pink). Close the small connector ring (Blue)
3. Gently slide the Center Ring (Green) outward from the three rings.
4. Slide a Connector Ring (Blue) through the eye of all three Large rings.
Arrange the unit to look like this
5. Pick up a Connector Ring (Blue), and slide 1 outer ring (Pink) on to it, slide the connector ring through the Center (Green) Ring.
6. Add on more Outer ring (Pink) to the Connector ring, close the ring.
Arrange the unit to look like this
7. The next connector ring will slide into the eye of all three rings, and beneath the ring just added. Close the ring.
8. Pick the unit up, and turn it 1/4 turn.
9. Sandwich a Center Ring (Green) in between the two Outer Rings (Pink).
10. Slide a Connector Ring (Blue) through the eye of all three rings.
11. Slide a second Connector Ring (Blue) through the eye of all three Large rings, beneath the connector ring just added in step 10.
Repeat Steps 5, 6 and 7.
Repeat Steps 8, 9, 10, and 11.
*To keep your chain from getting wonky at the starting edge, you may "sandwich" a Large Center Ring (Green) in between the first pair of Outer Rings, and connect it with two (2) Small Rings. You may also wish to place a jump ring, scrap wire or twist tie to mark the beginning of your chain.Weave Tips: Having difficulty getting those rings to stay in place? Try one of these two alternatives.
2. Place the unit on top of an Outer Ring (Pink) with the small ring in the center.
3. Place a second Large Outer Ring (Pink) on top of the unit, with the small ring in the center.
4. Slide a Connector Ring (Blue) through one eye of all three rings, above the small ring in the center.
The unit will look like this.
5. Add one more Connector Ring through the eye of all three jump Large Rings and beneath the small ring in the middle.
6. Add a Connector Ring through the eye of all three Large Rings on the opposite side of the unit.
7. Remove the small Center ring, and add one more Connector Ring beneath the ring just added in step 6.
Continue the Weave beginning with Step 5, and following through Step 11, until your length of chain is complete.
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